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Full Version: Low oil pressure and what to do?
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What is the lowest safe pressure one can expect at 900rpm when running in very hot conditions?
Could someone please give a answer for most T3 engine setups?

I might fit a oil cooler with a thermostat because most of our trips we drive 90% + in "L" gear and the fan is almost constantly running...
o - 1/2 bar, WBX should have 2 bar at 2000rpm at 80 degrees, when hot and at idle most wbx have less than 0.5 bar, my 2.0i, golf, has 6 bar at cold idle, 2 bar at 120 degree oil temp at idle,
Will be back at tj eng rebuilders Monday 6th when they reopen for the year.
6 bar cold, 1.5 bar hot and as low as 0.8 bar @ idle when hot.
could also be the Auto Gauge that may not be sending correct signal, will have them check this all.
The only way to conclusively check is to hook up a mechanical oil pressure test gauge.
This is the first thing I do if an engine shows sights of low oil pressure. You then know wot you
Are dealing with.
Dashboard gauges or wiring can can develop faults or be inaccurate.
You need to look at your wiring as well as your oil buzzer should not go off unless to turn of your ignition.
Once this buzzer is activated an increase in oil pressure should not switch it off.
Thanks guys. Russel, you mean that my buzzer and light coming on sporadically and goes out via higher revs, means there is electrical fault rather than mechanical?
Is there a difference between the 2.5 and 2.6 pickup or sump or anything else that could be at fault mechanically?
Bennie I am not saying there is no mechanical fault but am saying there is an electrical fault there.
To determin if there is or isn't a mechanical fault you will need to do the relevant tests.
A mechanical test is were you start so as not to cause any damage.
Thank goodness, sorted!!!!!!!!!
Was testing o/p with loaned mechanical gauge with extended hose to be able to have in my hand while driving. Electrical gauge still working and verified the difference.
- When cold a & at idle, both at 6.0 bar(kpa).
- Normal operating temps, * idle 1.8 vs 0.8(electrical),
* 2,000rpm 2.0 vs 1 bar
* 3,000rpm 2.9 vs 1.8 bar etc.
Luckily it seems to be a electrical or hardwear (on buzzer/ light) fault.
SO-O-O-O happy !Big GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig Grin
Glad you sorted...
So did you fix the electrical fault with the autoguage ?
Yes, but these gauges seems to be unrealiable, at least I have something better that tells the story inside the engine than just the oe gauges.
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